The goal was Mulege and Leon about 2/3 of the way down the Baja Peninsula, the mostly desert leg that hangs down from the American California and that most people know because of Cabo San Lucas, the resort town at its end. Our voyage was going to be a lot less luxurious. Four of us in a car driving about 820km each way to a small Mexican city that was supposed to have a beautiful bay nearby. Tijuana, where we picked up our car was a fascinating mix of squalor, workaday Mexican city, and tourist-trap. We were soon off as night fell to rolling hills to the quieter city of Ensenada, also frequented by tourists hoping for a more relaxed vacation to wild Tijuana. It was rainy, however, and we saw few other tourists before we hit the open road the next morning. Tiny hamlets of tin-roofed auto repair shops and grocery stores flew by, garbage lining the side of the road. As we continued, there was more and more open space as beautiful mountains and fields of crops opened up on all sides of us. We stopped briefly at La Bufadora, a natural blow hole in the rocks. Meandering through the stalls of locals set up to sell trinkets, we watched the ocean spray launch itself upwards to where we stood at the top of cliffs.